The trip my girlfriend, Frances, and I popularized southern Portugal in the tail end of September would be a compromise. The previous few years we'd either been to Italy (where my folks have a location) or France (where hers do). Both of us thought it was time for you to go somewhere where neither was the local expert, but that will mean budgeting more carefully than normal.
The plan ended up being to stay somewhere fairly remote and quiet close to the coast, enjoy the sunshine and food, and do some gentle exploring, mainly based around wildlife-watching. The next spending diary covers the first four days of an extended holiday.
Pre-trip spending
Flights: EUR162 return from London Gatwick to Faro with easyJet.
Accommodation: EUR150 (my half of five nights). We wanted to get an AirBnB so we could mostly self-cater using the odd meal out. After weeks of diligent research (in which I played very little part), Frances chosen the 'Tiny House', an aptly named mini wooden cabin deep in the countryside outside the town of Silves. There wasn't a lot to it: basically a room having a double bed, fridge, stove, a backyard shower and loo, a veranda and, beyond that, an outdoor with a hammock. I initially thought it might be too small, but it ended up being perfect. The weather was so good that we spent most of our time outdoors anyway.
Car hire: EUR90 for five days (EUR18 each day). It was slightly more expensive than anticipated. I had arranged a car before we left utilizing an online deal, however wound up taking out more insurance at the desk when i was concerned about driving on unmade roads (and that i have weak sales resistance). We needed to pay EUR8 in tolls.
On the ground
Monday
11.30am: We arrived, noting with pleasure how warm and sunny it was (it would remain in the high 20s for the entire trip), picked up the car and drove to Silves, getting there around lunchtime. We parked free of charge on a side street. The previous capital of Moorish Portugal, the town's glory days are behind it, but it's a pleasant, sleepy little place – hilly and whitewashed with stork nests on chimney pots.
1pm: As we couldn't sign in until 3pm, we got some lunch, which for me personally meant a toasted cheese and ham sandwich (EUR4.50) and a beer (accidentally free, as they forgot to charge us and I didn't realise until I checked my bill later), accompanied by a wander across the town. After a quick visit to the castle at the top of town (EUR2.80), which has very impressive restored Moorish outer walls (but not a lot else), we drove to Lidl. There we stocked up on supplies for the week including butter, bread, beer, fruit, tea bags (remember we're from England), snacks for that afternoon (pastel de nata, EUR0.35 each) and a pasta meal for your evening. We acquired a few big bottles of water. They were particularly important as the Tiny House's water is provided by a well, which was not only in short supply following a long, hot summer but virtually undrinkable, so we'd require it to cook. My share of the shopping found EUR11.07.
4pm: Using the car loaded, we followed the clear but lengthy driving instructions to Tiny House. It lies at the end of some long, winding and, in places, worryingly narrow unmade roads ("slow, 1st gear all the way" said the instructions and I wasn't going to disagree) and it is quite wonderfully isolated: no phone signal, no wi-fi. Once in, we celebrated with a pastel de nata along with a beer.
8pm: After our meal, we sat around the veranda and, as darkness fell, we were joined by some additional visitors. Around half a dozen geckos emerged from the shadows to position themselves next to the two outdoor lamps waiting for moths to choose off. They would be our constant evening companions throughout the week.
Tuesday
10am: Our first breakfast was bread and jam – the latter happily found in the fridge. Afterwards, we headed out to look for a nature reserve we'd find out about. The Quinta da Rocha is an area of wetlands next to the estuary from the Alvor River and home to numerous types of wading bird. Entry and parking were free, although locating it proved tricky as it's completely unsignposted. We eventually stumbled our way there to be rewarded with views of flamingos, egrets and storks. We saw an osprey – usually the sort of bird that you simply see only after months of diligent preparation and staking out.
1pm: For supper we headed to the slightly touristy resort of Alvor where parking was again free. Besieged by hungry seagulls in a seafront restaurant, Casa da Maré, I'd a grilled golden bream with salad and potatoes (EUR13.50) along with a large beer for (EUR3.50). This was slightly more expensive than it should have been, as we weren't yet comfortable with the thought of sending back the couvert, a mini starter – usually a basket of bread and a bowl of olives – which comes prior to the main meal, and which you have to cover if you don't actively decline it. Even though I did not want it, being British it took me about four meals before I could bring up the courage to state "Nao obrigado" instead of "Thanks so much". This one cost EUR2.80. Afterwards, we'd an ice cream from a local shop (two scoops for EUR3.50) and went for a wander.
5pm: That afternoon, we ended up again in the Lidl in Silves where we replenished our supplies, obtaining more beer, fruit, fruit juice, salad, cheese, lemonade, wine (just EUR2.19!) and water. My share found EUR11.60.
Wednesday
11am: Following a pre-bought breakfast of pastries and fruit, we headed to the beach at Praia da Marinha, parking for free at the top of the cliffs. Described online among the "10 most beautiful beaches in Europe" (although are they not all?), I was expecting it to be packed. But as we were close to the end of year, it was relatively empty. I am not a real beach person but even I saw it's very picturesque: a curve of sand set within rugged cove. I did my favorite to squintingly read my book within the blazing sun while Frances swam.
1pm: On the beach, we ate sandwiches we'd brought. We then went for some time walk along the clifftops, admiring the views and also the lots of people ignoring the twelve signs to not get too on the brink. This stretch is famed for is wave-cut rock formations, particularly Benagil, a great cathedral-like cavern in which a succession of boat trips journey to during the day. We'd considered taking one ourselves (it might have cost EUR30), but decided ultimately the free views from the cliff tops were impressive enough.
2.30pm: After around an hour approximately of walking, we reached the village of Benagil itself, a little watersports centre where we'd a cola (EUR2.50) and a large beer (EUR4.50) in a bar by the beach. Then we did exactly the same walk we'd just done but in reverse, returning to the vehicle in just under an hour.
6pm: Another supermarket go to get more fruit, bread and wine as well as some eggs for your evening's meal of omelettes. My share came to EUR3.35.
Thursday
6pm: Following a day spent lying within the hammock reading, going through the walks around Tiny House and usually not doing much, we headed into the city for a drink in the Café Ingles, which sits just below the castle. Frances had a mojito as i were built with a beer (EUR3.50)
8pm: It was then on to Silves' best-regarded restaurant, Rui, which specialises in seafood. The guidebook's threat that we'd need to "fight for a table" ended up being an exaggeration but it was certainly packing them in compared to the nearly empty sushi place nearby. We couldn't decide if we wanted the couvert or were still too cowardly to show it down. In either case, we ended up having it (EUR3.75), accompanied by fish: baked cod for me (EUR11.50) and sole for Frances with a bottle of dark wine (EUR8.50). To complete, we shared a dessert of ice cream in a frozen lemon (EUR5).
Friday
7.30am: For the most part i was pleased to improvise our days and take things because they came but there is one activity both of us definitely desired to do before leaving: dolphin watching. It had not been likely to be cheap but we determined that it might be worthwhile – provided we had some dolphins, of course.
The port of Lagos, about a 20-minute drive where i was staying, is one of the main centres for trips, with boats venturing out several times each day beginning at 9.30am. We got there early to ensure our places, parking for free on a road just back from the water (it's EUR2 on the front itself). There were kiosks offering tours all the way along the front, each eager to solicit our custom. To exhibit we were people of discernment and never willing to take just any thing, we stopped at the second one we passed. To be fair, all the operators offer much the same prices and repair, plus they all interact, calling one another when dolphins are spotted, so it doesn't make a huge deal of difference whom you go with. It was EUR40 each for a trip leaving at 11.30am (it's usually around EUR5 cheaper if booked online).
10am: We'd a late breakfast at a street-side cafe: a ham and cheese toasted sandwich (EUR2.60) along with a coffee (EUR1.70) for me. Then, armed with a free map acquired in the Algarve Water World kiosk, we wandered round the historic centre taking in the sights until it was time to board our boat.
11.30am: Come the hour, we arrived at the dock, put on our life jackets, and did that slightly demeaning wobbly hop thing everyone does when getting on a ship. Your day was absolutely baking, so I'd dressed in shorts and a shirt. But when the boat was up to date and racing into the wind, it had been absolutely freezing. I'd advise taking an additional layer. But our shivering was soon forgotten when, about 20 minutes in, we found a pod of 15 dolphins. I had been just a little concerned we may be bothering them, but if the dolphins were get upset, they were extremely skilled at not showing it. In fact, they seemed fascinated by the boats, coming up near to investigate, swimming alongside us and jumping out of the water almost constantly to do acrobatic twists and turns for no other reason, it appears, rather than show off. I was very impressed, taking approximately 600 photos, of which around five have been in focus.
2pm: Dolphin watching had provided us with an appetite, so back on land we headed to the second restaurant we saw, the M. Rest. & Grill, located in a narrow street alongside various similar establishments. There, I'd piri piri chicken (EUR8.50) and a beer (EUR4) which, within my post-dolphin excitement, I forgot to photograph. However, we did finally work up the courage to politely ask the waiters to not bring the couvert.
4pm: Having selected our previous beach visit that we needed more protection from the sand, we headed towards the row of market stalls on Lagos' seafront where we each purchased a beach towel adorned with pictures of catch EUR10, which we road tested straight away in a nearby beach, the Praia da Dona Ana (they did the job). It was another short stretch of idyllic sand set behind alarmingly tumbledown-looking cliffs. Frances did more swimming as i read, this time around in the shade; I'd learnt my lesson. Again, parking was free.
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