Prague is a continental epicenter. It's not only the Czech Republic's capital, but arguably the region's most culturally relevant city. And also the word has gone out, with tourism increasing. Yet there's more there than the usual tourist to-do list.
Prague's history is one of external influences mixing with local traditions. Home to the truly amazing kingdoms of Bohemia and one-time capital of both the Holy Roman Empire and also the Habsburg's Austro-Hungarian dynasty, Prague happens to be a cultural crossroads. Today, its role as regional metropolis helps build a vibrant local cultural scene, one with a decidedly Czech flavor.
Old World Prague living (and drinking)
Prague's Old Town (Staré Město) is how most visitors eventually end up. It is a beautiful district, restored and well-maintained, offering Prague's baroque take on ” old world ” plazas and cathedrals. Although the Czechs do a good job of keeping things Czech, the quarter has inevitably taken on some tourism aesthetics, so one must dig a bit deeper for additional untouched local experiences. Beer is a necessary part of any Czech exploration, so even though you don't partake, possess a seat and soak everything in. Traditional beer halls are like wood-carved time machines, offering carb-heavy glimpses into yesteryear.
In the center of the Old Town you will find U Zlatého Tygra, a popular old-time hangout that has were able to host visiting presidents while still giving priority to the local clientele. It is a good illustration of a vintage Czech pub. For a step deeper into the local watering hole community, walk over the Charles Bridge and find U Hrocha. This can be a local's spot – walking in, the apparently surly bartender will assess your beer-drinking authenticity, sometimes turning clients away. Yet behind the tough exterior are warm suds-slingers searching for a laugh – and if you're given difficulty, just smile and say “come on, just one.” Odds are he'll let you in.
Hanging Out Just like a Local
Continue your exploration in to the local scene with a stop at Zázemí. A spot for those found on the slightly grungier end from the hipster spectrum, Zázemí offers cheap beers with live local music and art events – an uncommon find in the increasingly touristy Old Town.
A short walk outside the Old Town, located in the city's bustling “new town” (Prague 1) you will find Cafe Jericho. Hidden on the quaint side street, this cafe/bar hybrid is a low-key local hangout, with budding artists displayed and regulars drinking around the front stoop. An excellent option for work or play, night or day.
Next head to Náplavka, the riverfront area outside the downtown core. This local favorite provides a variety of boat-bars and street food stalls, with great choices for Czech drink and food inside a lively outdoor environment. If on a tight budget, do because the locals do and get a corner store pilsner and merely sit through the river and people-watch. On summer Saturdays go by the Náplavka Farmer's Market (until 2pm for late-risers).
For more outdoor chilling, head over the river to Letná, a city park included in the riverfront hills. The views alone are worth rapid trek, but enjoy the afternoon and also have a cold draft beer plus some grilled sausage within the Letná Beer Garden. This tree-covered haven serves food and drink until 10pm on summer weekends.
Don't forego the culture
If the arts are more your scene, explore the encompassing Holesovice neighborhood. This former slightly sleazy industrial area has revitalized into one of Prague's coolest districts. Bio Oko is an arthouse cinema showing a variety of popular and independent films. Trafo Gallery is definitely an artist's collective offering Czech modern art, and DOX is one of Prague's premiere contemporary museums. For additional local events, head a few minutes west into Prague 6 to Klubovna for live music and other cultural happenings.
Finally for any peak into in which the cool kids hang, the guys from Zizkovsiska are moving their underground yet extremely popular Sunday Jam Sessions for an outdoor garden setting for that summer. Worth checking out.
Prague is both a city of obvious beauty and hidden treasures. Exploring these local gems and spending some time in neighborhoods like Holesovice, Zizkov and Vrsovice will give you a much better appreciation and fuller view of one of Europe's most compelling cities.
